My clients who book me for photoshoots like to call me “THE SKIN QUEEN” — and honestly, I love it. I’ll admit it: I’m a little obsessed with complexion. Flawless, smooth, glowing… and always with that bare-skin look rather than a heavy, mask-like base. For me, a beautiful complexion is the foundation of any great makeup look — whether it’s for a shoot or everyday life.
In this article, I’m sharing my pro tips for choosing and applying foundation to achieve that fresh, natural, luminous finish.
Achieving that healthy glow is easier than you think. It starts with the right products, of course, but also with the right application technique. Here’s how to apply each type of foundation like a pro.
How to Apply Liquid Foundation
Lightweight liquid foundations are my go-to for almost every makeup look — whether I’m backstage working on models or doing makeup for private clients.
My absolute favourite (obviously!) is my Fond de Teint Lumière, which I created specifically to give a radiant, ultra-natural skin finish — my all-time favourite look.
With light to medium coverage, it smooths the skin discreetly and leaves a beautiful “your-skin-but-better” result.
Its fluid texture makes it very easy to apply. I usually use a duo-fiber brush because it’s fast, effortless, and gives the most transparent, seamless result. I’ve created my own soft, rounded-tip complexion brush for perfect application — it will be available soon on louiselouisebeauty.com.
In the meantime, great alternatives are available from Léonard, MAC and Zoeva.
Here’s how I do it: I place a drop of foundation on the back of my hand, then pick up small amounts and dot them onto the face. I always start in the centre (where most people need a little extra coverage), then blend outward.
You can also use your fingers — especially in winter, as the warmth of your hands helps the product melt beautifully into the skin.
Pro tip: use your middle and ring fingers rather than your index.
Why You Should Avoid Using Your Index Finger
A small but important pro trick: avoid using your index finger to apply foundation. We tend to press too hard with the index. Makeup artists prefer the middle and ring fingers because they apply less pressure, giving a softer, more controlled result — perfect for fluid and creamy textures.
Whatever method you use, there’s one thing to avoid: pressing too hard. With a fluid texture, the lighter your touch, the better the finish.
BB Creams, CC Creams and Tinted Moisturisers: The “False Foundations”
BB and CC creams — plus tinted moisturisers — sit somewhere between skincare and makeup. They come in many textures and offer varying levels of coverage.
One of my favourites is the Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer.
Some offer almost no coverage at all and won’t even out the skin tone — they simply add a soft rosy or peachy tint. These apply just like a light lotion, smoothed gently all over the face.
Others offer a little more coverage — closer to a sheer foundation — so you’ll need to apply them with a bit more care. You can use your hands or a duo-fiber brush, following the same techniques as for lightweight liquid foundations.
Reminder: Despite their names, BB and CC creams do not replace your usual moisturiser.
(If you’re curious about my skincare routine and favourite products, take a look at this post.)
How to Apply Medium-Coverage Cream Foundations
Creamier, thicker foundations are ideal when you want more coverage. But the finish you get depends hugely on the brush you choose — and here’s how to pick the right one.
Medium-coverage foundations are often used to neutralise redness or hide small imperfections. To keep the skin looking natural, it’s best to vary the coverage: more where you need it, lighter everywhere else.
Makeup artists use different brushes for this:
For covering redness: a compact, rounded brush (like the MAC 170) or a flat rounded brush (like the one from Chanel).
For a more natural, sheer finish: a duo-fiber brush — just like with liquid foundations.
Whatever brush you choose, here’s a little pro technique: use the back of your hand as your palette. Place a small amount of product there and pick it up with the brush. This prevents overloading the bristles. Then apply the foundation in small touches, again starting from the centre of the face and blending outward.
Full-Coverage Cream or Stick Foundations
These formulas are great for covering redness and imperfections. But sometimes, when I'm short on time, I use them on the entire face — applied very lightly. It’s quick and efficient, especially if your skin needs more coverage.
My favourites include the Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick and, for deeper skin tones, the Graftobian HD Glamour Crème.
Be careful not to apply too much! With stick foundations, it’s tempting to swipe them directly across the face like lipstick. I prefer taking the product onto a brush first — again starting from the centre of the face — and blending gently.
Creamy textures do require a bit more pressure, but not too much, otherwise you’ll create “patches”. Blend with sweeping and circular motions.
As always, brush choice depends on the finish you want:
A dense, rounded brush for fuller coverage
A duo-fiber brush for a lighter effect
Cream Foundations: A Great Option for Black or Mixed-Race Skin
For my readers with dark or mixed-race skin: high-coverage sticks or cream foundations are often what I reach for. Why? Because these formulas offer a much wider shade range — which makes finding the perfect colour match so much easier.
Should You Use a Sponge to Apply Foundation?
Personally, I’m not a big fan of sponges for applying foundation. Why?
Because they absorb too much product — product that ends up going straight down the drain when you wash the sponge. And if you don’t clean them thoroughly after each use, they can become a breeding ground for bacteria.
That said, a sponge can be useful if you want to tone down a foundation that looks too heavy. In that case, I dampen the sponge slightly and gently tap — never rub — the areas I want to sheer out.
Choosing the Right Shade
Whatever texture you use, the most important step is choosing the correct shade for your skin tone. The right colour means you’ll need less product — and the result will be much more natural.
I’ve written an article explaining my method for finding your ideal shade.
Anti-Ageing Foundations for Mature Skin: A Category on Its Own
Finding the right foundation after 40 can be a real challenge — which is why I dedicated an entire article to the best anti-ageing foundations.
To Summarise: My Method for a Luminous Complexion
Liquid foundations: Use a duo-fiber brush for a light, transparent application. Dot the product in the centre of the face and blend outward.
BB & CC creams: Coverage varies. Apply like a lotion or with a brush for a sheer finish.
Cream foundations (medium coverage): Choose the brush based on how much coverage you want; apply in small touches and adjust coverage depending on the area.
Cream or stick foundation (full coverage): Perfect for targeted imperfections. Apply a thin layer with a brush to avoid heaviness.
Sponges: Helpful only to soften overly heavy foundation.
If you have any makeup questions, feel free to get in touch — or come see me for a Beauty Coaching session, a personalised makeup lesson.
See you soon!
— Louise Wittlich
(Makeup on the model in the photo: Louise Wittlich)
All models featured on my blog are made up by me unless otherwise stated.
