Anti-Aging Lip Makeup: My 6 Expert Tips

Why is creating an anti-aging lip makeup look so tricky? Well, aging has a particularly noticeable impact on our lips.

Primarily, it’s the decrease in collagen in mature skin that becomes quite apparent in the lips, causing them to lose volume. Additionally, the skin around the lips is very thin, and with the movements of the mouth, fine lines can form, creating those pesky lip wrinkles.

Thin lips with fine lines around them pose quite a challenge when it comes to makeup. Also, lipstick has the reputation of making us look “older,” which isn’t entirely untrue, especially when poorly chosen.

Many women who are 40 and older are often unsure about how to apply makeup to their lips. Some even completely stop wearing lip makeup. However, there’s no need to go to extremes, as there are some anti-aging lip makeup tricks you can try.

Tip #1: Take Care of Your Lips (And Indulge in the Best Lip Balm)

First things first. In order to look their best with makeup, lips need to be smooth and well hydrated.
Since our lips are one of the few parts of our body that don’t produce oil or sweat to protect themselves, they require special attention at any age. Lip balms and, when needed, UV protection, should be part of our skincare routine.

For women who are 40 and older, we need to give our lips even more care and attention. One product that perfectly meets the demands of “anti-aging” lips and is a staple in both my personal makeup kit and professional arsenal is the Laneige Lip Mask. This Korean brand has created the richest, creamiest lip balm. The product suggests applying it at night before bed and letting it work its magic overnight. You wake up with the smoothest, softest lips. I also use it during the day as it adds a lovely shine.

Good to know for those who dislike fruity scents in lip products (like myself): it quickly evaporates.

Tip #2: Treat Very Chapped Lips…

If, despite your efforts, your lips are still chapped, there’s a very effective and quick way to “restore” them. Enter the Kiko exfoliating wipes.

Here’s how I use them: I tear off a “strip” from a wipe since I won’t need an entire wipe for my lips. I wrap the strip around my index finger and gently rub it on the chapped area. The effect is almost miraculous: the wipe removes all the dry bits of skin to reveal smooth lips. As a bonus, the lips take on a fresh pink color after rubbing.

Tip #3: Adopt the right texture

Now that our lips are in perfect condition—smooth and soft—how do we apply makeup to them? What should we consider for successful anti-aging lip makeup? The choice of the right lipstick texture is crucial!

Let’s first talk about textures that are not suitable for anti-aging makeup: on one hand, very matte lipsticks, which often come as liquid lipcolor. This type of product will visually flatten lips that are already lacking in volume and accentuate unevenness.

Very glossy lipsticks are also not the best for mature lips, as they tend to bleed into the fine lines around the mouth. (I’ll discuss this issue more in-depth later.)

The best textures for lipstick are creamy, hydrating ones that optically smooth out the lip’s texture.
Among my favorites are the lipsticks by Dior and Armani.

Tip #4: Choose the best colors

After texture, comes color. What are the most flattering lipstick shades? Which ones should you avoid?

Generally, very bright colors and dark shades will visually make your lips appear thinner. So, if your lips lack volume, these shades aren’t your best friends.

Safe choices are natural pinks, nudes, and rosy browns. Choose them slightly warmer, towards peach and apricot colors if your skin tone is more golden. If your complexion is cooler, neutral pinks will suit you better.

Tip #5: Keep your lipstick in place

As mentioned earlier, the most common concern with applying makeup to mature lips is lipstick settling into the fine lines around the mouth.
The best way to keep your lipstick in place is to use a lip liner to outline your lips. The pencil has a drier texture that will lock in the lipstick. Ideally, choose one in exactly the same color as your lipstick, and it won’t be visible at all.

Less known, there’s another way to lock in your lipstick. It’s an transparent pencil, which is applied outside the lip line and creates an invisible barrier. You can find them for example at Kiko and Dr. Hauschka.

Tip #6: Create Volume

If we understand correctly that completely matte lipsticks have a flattening effect, can we create volume by adding shine? Absolutely!
My pro makeup tip: Instead of a full glossy mouth that may quickly bleed into the small lines around the lips, apply just a touch of shine to the center of your lips.

Combine this with my tip no. 5 and outline your lips with a pencil. Interesting to know: You can actually go slightly beyond what I call the “colored” edge of the lips, say by a millimeter. If you look closely at your lips, you’ll notice there’s a 3D edge that is slightly outside the colored edge. If you fill this millimeter of space with your pencil, you’ll get visibly fuller lips.

Fill in your lips with the same pencil or a creamy lipstick. Add a touch of gloss in the middle, either clear or lighter than your lipstick. And voilà a very nice volumizing effect.

Tip #7: Opt for a tinted balm

My secret weapon for a naturally fresh and easy-to-wear lip is a tinted lip balm. You can apply it almost without looking and reapply during the day, as needed, without moderation. While taking care of your lips and protecting them from drying out, you’ll have a touch of color that brightens your complexion.

They come in many colors, from light pink for very fair skin to plum for olive skin tones. Some of my favorites are Nars Afterglow Lip Balm, Clinique Chubby Stick, and MAC Glowplay.