When it comes to mature eye makeup, “less is more” is the motto to follow, as we have seen already in the chapter dedicated to mature skin makeup. Keep it light, as far as the textures are concerned and the colours, but also your application techniques!
Mature eye makeup: which colors are your best friends?
With age, we feel more and more often rather like bringing out discreetly our assets and overplay the features we like less, instead of impressing with an artful makeup. Better forget about those rainbow color eyeshadows, which tend to drown your natural colors. Purple in particular often makes your eyes look tired, rather astonishingly this color can be found in very many makeup bags.
Go for “natural” colors, browns, greys, taupes, which will bring out your eye color. These colors are part of your own colors, your lashes, eyebrows, hair. Using them around your eyes means enhancing them while remaining mysteriously undetectable.
Textures: more velvet than vinyl
Beyond 40, there’s one important thing you need to know about textures: Shine brings out volume (think highlighter and lip gloss) but it also brings out unevenness. Everything that’s 3-dimensional in fact.
On the other hand matte surfaces seem to be smoother. Applying this knowledge to your eye shadow means you should go for matte and satin finishes and drop the metallics and iridescents, in order not to make tiny wrinkles look like they’re deep ones.
Look out for softness
Couleurs et textures choisies, on arrive à l’application. Que faire avec je joli fard moka velouté ? Cherchez la douceur, le flouté, le fondu, qui vont faire de votre maquillage une affaire raffinée et mystérieuse car difficile à déchiffrer au premier regard. Evitez les traits et les contours dessinés. Tout ce qui est dessiné et défini durcit les traits. Appliquez vos fards en dégradé, en insistant un peu plus sur le tiers extérieur de la paupière. Et puis cherchez à estomper au maximum, pour faire fondre les fards dans la peau. Le flou, « artistique », adoucit et embellit.
Long-lasting mature eye makeup
Softer, less firm skin, maybe sagging eyelids, may render your makeup less long-lasting. For a more durable result, look out for waterproof formulas, like pencils, crayons and cream eyeshadows. Available recently are thick eyeshadow pencils, like for example the Longwear Cream Shadow Stick by Bobbi Brown. You apply it on the upper eyelid, along the lash line, and then you blend it out upwards until beautifully transparent.
Another favourite of mine is the Caviar Stick Eye Colour by Laura Mercier, especially the khaki-colored one. Application requires a certain skill and swiftness as the creamy textures dries rather quickly and become unsmudgeable. In return, your makeup stays put, no matter what your day has in store for you.
Optionally, you layer some powder eyeshadow over your pencil or cream product. The two textures will fix each other and result in an even more resistant eye makeup.
Mascara for mature eyes
Sagging eyelids will also cause damage to your mascara. Again, waterproof formulas will hold up longer and more beautifully. Pick a texture which is neither too thick (too tricky to handle) nor too fluid (too little effect). Among my favorites are the Hypnose Waterproof Mascara by Lancôme, et le Volum’ Express Mascara by Maybelline. Build up a nice density along the roots of your lashes. But go easy on the tips in order not to create clumps and heaviness.
Another option are “tube” mascaras, available recently for example by Blinc. Their polymer-3-d based formulation creates flexible tubes all around your eyelashes, which, once dried, won’t budge, however sweaty your workout or melodramatic your movie night.
Flaw- and ageless skin to match your eyes
Which are the best textures and techniques for perfect and youthful skin? More advice, tips and tricks here, in my article on mature makeup.
A video tutorial…
In this video I demonstrate some more makeup techniques for mature skin and eyes.
And finally, some makeup mistakes you should avoid…
Sad and torn features, dry skin, wrinkly lips… sometimes makeup can do more harm than good. Here my list of the most common mature makeup mistakes, and how to avoid them.